Most indulgences are pleasures borrowed from your health or sanity — mindless entertainment, processed food, booze or needless shopping. But not in this case. You’re making your pleasure from the cleanest ingredients: leaves, water, and time.
Don’t Breathe. A good gimmick stretched too far. Much preferred the basic home invasion plot before the homeowner got… complicated.
On Memorial Day weekend I finished an urban walking trilogy. One morning in 2017 I set out to walk 19 miles from the heart of downtown out east to the top of Stone Mountain. I had toyed with the idea for a while, and figured one morning, what the heck. Why not? As soon as I finished, I thought about where else I might go. In 2018, it was 23 miles out northwest to Kennesaw Mountain’s summit. This year, I did a little morning 13-miler down to the airport.
Most of the time on these walks, it’s not really enjoyable. The streets and highways aren’t friendly for pedestrians. The sun bears down on you. Hard sidewalks (when they exist) make my feet hurt. I walk past industrial parks, encampments for those with no other place to sleep, empty lots, next to 4-lane highways, underneath interstate overpasses, past strip malls, past front porches. I feel kinda scummy and outcast, especially when just starting out. But eventually there’s a sense of place I develop, connecting the pieces, filling in the gaps, that I don’t get in other ways. And there’s a satisfaction of looking back to where I came from, and knowing what’s in between.
Like most dumb Type 2 fun I do, I’m… not exactly sure… why? But when I get ideas, and wonder what-ifs, and they don’t go away, it’s usually best to try to give them life.
Paddington. Oh man I was obsessed within minutes. So much heart, moral grounding. And the visual comedy! The dopey slapstick! Gotta chase down the sequel soon.
John Wick: Chapter 3 – Parabellum. It was good. I consider myself a big enough fan of the franchise that I know I’m probably grading on a curve, but I think “good” is accurate. I feel like the world is getting a little too big. Too many characters. This world of assassins used to feel more sneaky and underground, now it feels ubiquitous. There were too many coins being slipped across tables followed by meaningful eye contact. Halle Berry had a nice turn. Laurence Fishburne continues to be simply the best at… speaking… words. Love the final pitched battle gimmick: dudes with so much body armor they keep reviving like zombies. If you can’t send infinite waves of infantry, make them recyclable. John Wick riding horseback through the city at night is very much my shit.
Back in July 2017, I spent a couple weeks hiking Kungsleden, a 270-mile trail in northern Sweden. I started at Hemavan and walked ~215ish miles north up to Saltoluokta, with time constraints keeping me away from the last chunk.
Researching the trail was a bit challenging. While there was a lot of content on general trekking approaches, I didn’t find a lot oriented toward the more ultralight/lightweight approach I prefer. There wasn’t a ton of information in English, either. And because I do almost all of my hiking in the southern U.S., it was a little difficult to translate my own experience into what I would need to have a good time in a far different environment. So here I’ll jot down the gear and resources I used, in hopes it will help the next person along. (I meant to write this sooner, but… 🤷♂️).
Timing and Conditions
I hiked from July 3 to 17. It was a higher snow year (I am told), and my start date was a few weeks earlier than peak season begins. When I began there was still snow lingering on many portions of the trail. Snow crossings happened on most days, but none of it was particularly difficult. It was rare to see patches longer than 100 meters or so, none of it was very steeply sloped, and I had only a bit of post-holing here and there. There was quite a lot of water on the trail – creek crossings, snowmelt, boggy sections, etc., so keeping feet dry was just about impossible.
Temperatures ranged from high 30s on the coldest mornings, in the 40s and 50s on most days, with sunnier ones briefly in the upper 70s or low 80s. I was lucky to only have heavy rain on a couple of days. Those were pretty miserable, and just about perfect for hypothermia. Just about every day had some strong winds at some point. Walking from the south to the north kept the prevailing winds at my back, and I’d highly recommend a northbound hike for just that reason.
The hut system is very nice, and I took advantage of it here and there.. Most have bunks, gas stoves, etc.. The best part is many have little shops with enough food to buy for the next few days. There isn’t a ton of variety, but if you’re hiking at a fair pace, you don’t really need to carry more than 2-3 days of food and a few bites to fill in the cracks.
On to the gear.
Kungsleden Gear List
|Goodhew merino-alpaca quarter crew socks||Durable, warm||As expected, lots of miles left on these. Seemed to hold on to mud more than other merino socks I’ve used – side effect of long-hair alpaca, perhaps? I only used one pair for hiking, the other reserved for nighttime toastiness.|
|Adidas Traxion trailrunners||Light, flexible; Deep cleats for mud and gravel; mesh for easy drainage||Great choice. Feet wet every single day but shoes never waterlogged too long.|
|Swrve slim pants||Cut for city cycling = deep pockets; no extra fabric to flap in wind, puddle at ankles, soak up water; don’t like zipoffs or cargo pockets; polyester more stretchy and comfy in rain and in bed||Perfect choice, very happy|
|Lightweight merino long-sleeve shirt||Comfy when damp; thinner for quicker drying; no stink||Rarely to worn alone; usually needed additional layers for bugs, cold|
|Prana polyester long-sleeve quarter-zip hoody||Easy temp adjustment; love the thumb loops||Worn daily over the merino, usually all day. Hood very useful for light bug pressure when headnet too hot/fussy. (Interested to try a midweight merino with synthetic button-up?)|
|Under Armor spandex boxer-briefs||No stretching, bunching, chafing, smell||Perfect choice|
|Patagonia R1 hoody||Warmth when active; deep venting; thumb loops!||Hood is still a little tight and short for my long neck :(|
|Polyester balaclava||Adjustable warmth when not wearing R1||Kept my cap from blowing off across the moors; lifesaver for nose/mouth when cold, dry air started to affect my lungs|
|Topo Designs camp hat||Woven better than mesh for wet/wind; broad, flat brim helps when wearing glasses in rain||Perfect choice|
|Casio digital watch||Slim, inexpensive, water resistant; tells time||Never took it off|
|Generic fleece gloves||Warmish||Perfect for small temperature adjustments. Worn daily. Not great in rain, but jacket sleeves helped. These things are… 15 years old?|
|Rab Kinetic rain jacket||Light; long sleeves cover hands; great hood||It worked great, but maybe a liiiiiiittle too light. A few more days with heavier rain would change my calculus here.|
|Sierra Designs rain pants||Inexpensive, durable||Light enough, sufficiently windproof; not going to spend much on something with limited performance requirements that gets heavy wear|
|Marmot Ion windshirt||Helps with insects + cold, wind when active||Absolutely perfect… for only one single day (cold, windy, alternating snowfall and sun). Otherwise, easily replaced by rain jacket.|
|Mountain Hardwear Thermostatic insulated jacket||Nuclear option, just in case||Mostly used as pillow. Could be replaced with 8-10oz vest, perhaps.|
|New Balance running tights||Night-time layer if everything is drenched||Never needed|
|ULA Circuit backpack||More durable as luggage than my lighter packs||Worked perfectly; love the hip pockets|
|Tarptent Moment tent||Not bringing trekking poles; sets up easily||Loved all the mesh for views and bugs; managed well in heavy winds|
|Western Mountaineering Ultralite 20º sleeping bag||Only other option was summerweight bag||A little bit overkill, but no complaints|
|Supercat alcohol stove||Inexpensive, fuel everywhere, easier to fly with||Would bring again|
|Evernew .9L Ti pot||Trusty ol’ standby|
|20oz bike water bottle||Water everywhere, don’t need a lot while moving||Also very useful for drink mixes and steeping lots of tea at end of day|
|Platypus 2L water bottle||Camp convenience|
|DEET||Mosquitos waking up…||Essential for middle stretch – boggier, lower-elevation campsites|
(Not listed are the usual essentials and conveniences – sunglasses, first aid kit, chapstick, nail clippers, small light, journaling stuff, maps, etc.)
Helpful Links and Resources
I got a lot out of Danielle and Wayne Fenton’s Kungsleden journal, and found their book quite useful as well. The photos were super helpful for understanding terrain and weather and such. Ditto for Distant North and Aaron Teoh‘s pages. (That said, there’s a fine line where you can read and see too much ahead of time…). Over on BackpackingLight.com, the trip reports from Kristin Gates‘ and Jörgen Johansson’s trips in Alaska were useful for rounding out Arctic travel knowledge, as were as various forum posts. The Swedish Mountain Maps app was really useful for daydreaming in advance, and the occasional peek at the terrain. The STF Kungsleden Facebook page is good for the on-the-ground trail conditions in the days leading up to the hike. The Calazo maps are really good, and I was glad I had them along.
And there you have it. Enjoy your hike.
Marlina the Murderer in Four Acts. The old lonesome house, and our weary protagonist, reminded me of Unforgiven. So much western goodness: Leone-esque desert wah wah guitar, church bells, lonesome trumpets; lone figures in a heat-rippled landscape; swords at the ready at the hip or hand like pistols, or resting across a saddle. Interesting gender themes: entitlement, absentee parents, naming children, pregnancy rumors and shaming. Birth scene seems an echo of early trauma. See also: Revenge, MFA, A Vigilante, Kill Bill: Vol. 1, Kill Bill: Vol. 2, etc..
Wonder Woman. Watched on a flight, which is the perfect environment for quietly sobbing at moments of goodness. The origin story can be so tired, but I just loved the moral heart of this one. The No Man’s Land scene is perfect (and well-named…). Dr. Poison is such a great villain. I loved the make-up and sly creepiness and the hoarse voice. Wish she had more to do. The line “It’s not about deserve… It’s about what you believe.” – such a great scene – got me thinking about William Munny. “Deserve’s got nothin’ to do with it.”
Crazy Rich Asians. Family drama! Family over mere passion mentioned several times. I like the loving attention to food, and flowers. Interesting that the soundtrack featured so many Asian-language covers of American songs, rather than local originals. I like the reclaiming of the Apocalypse Now helicopter/Wagner scene. Our hero Nick kinda drove me a little nuts with the constant smiling (reminded me of Jean Dujardin in The Artist). Gotta admit I love a good wardrobe change montage – they get me every time. I wonder if there’s some meaning or symbolism that went over my head during mahjong game, specifically the bamboo 8 tile. At the least, an echo of the early poker scene (“playing not to lose”).
Free Solo. Super invigorating. Yeesh. I can’t imagine. There are times I’ve gotten a little bit nervous about moves on a 15ft bouldering wall. I didn’t realize he had a girlfriend at the time of filming. The feat itself was amazing, but what made the movie good was those peripheral relationships. How people around him were stressing out, trying to be supportive without pressuring and without losing their minds. Saw this one on a long flight. Other outdoorsy movies I’ve seen on flights: Wild, 127 Hours.
Star Wars: The Last Jedi. Second viewing (the first). The opening bombing run is really good. I’d forgotten about it – holds up on rewatch. The casino interlude is so, so dumb. I appreciate the visual contrasts in the salt planet battle. Not just the colors, but the scale, like with Finn’s tiny figure juxtaposed with the gigantic tanks in empty space. We need more like that. So many close-ups. Love the tortured silence of Kylo Ren. So depressed, a mindset to just let it all go, burn it all down. Broader theme here of how brash, seat-of-the-pants heroism is often foolish. The writing still strikes me as bad in many spots. I didn’t notice the first time around how the kid Force-pulls himself a broom at the end.
Matilda. Starts with so much energy, but I couldn’t sustain my enthusiasm the full runtime. It’s fun, though.
Can You Ever Forgive Me?. Melissa McCarthy is so great. Love the portrayal of depression, loneliness, the walls and inability to connect, or only go so far before withdrawing. Nice touch with how the city sounds you hear in the apartment early on are echoed by/set up the sirens after the urgent voicemail!