Hiking Kungsleden

Kungsleden6088 Back in July 2017,  I spent a couple weeks hiking Kungsleden, a 270-mile trail in northern Sweden. I started at Hemavan and walked ~215ish miles north up to Saltoluokta, with time constraints keeping me away from the last chunk. Kungsleden5919 Researching the trail was a bit challenging. While there was a lot of content on general trekking approaches, I didn't find a lot oriented toward the more ultralight/lightweight approach I prefer. There wasn't a ton of information in English, either. And because I do almost all of my hiking in the southern U.S., it was a little difficult to translate my own experience into what I would need to have a good time in a far different environment. So here I'll jot down the gear and resources I used, in hopes it will help the next person along. (I meant to write this sooner, but... 🤷‍♂️).

Timing and Conditions

Kungsleden5967 I hiked from July 3 to 17. It was a higher snow year (I am told), and my start date was a few weeks earlier than peak season begins. When I began there was still snow lingering on many portions of the trail. Snow crossings happened on most days, but none of it was particularly difficult. It was rare to see patches longer than 100 meters or so, none of it was very steeply sloped, and I had only a bit of post-holing here and there. There was quite a lot of water on the trail – creek crossings, snowmelt, boggy sections, etc., so keeping feet dry was just about impossible. Kungsleden6064 Temperatures ranged from high 30s on the coldest mornings, in the 40s and 50s on most days, with sunnier ones briefly in the upper 70s or low 80s. I was lucky to only have heavy rain on a couple of days. Those were pretty miserable, and just about perfect for hypothermia. Just about every day had some strong winds at some point. Walking from the south to the north kept the prevailing winds at my back, and I'd highly recommend a northbound hike for just that reason. Kungsleden6144 The hut system is very nice, and I took advantage of it here and there.. Most have bunks, gas stoves, etc.. The best part is many have little shops with enough food to buy for the next few days. There isn't a ton of variety, but if you're hiking at a fair pace, you don't really need to carry more than 2-3 days of food and a few bites to fill in the cracks. Kungsleden5946 On to the gear.

Kungsleden Gear List

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Clothing

ItemRationale
Goodhew merino-alpaca quarter crew socksDurable, warmAs expected, lots of miles left on these. Seemed to hold on to mud more than other merino socks I've used – side effect of long-hair alpaca, perhaps? I only used one pair for hiking, the other reserved for nighttime toastiness.
Adidas Traxion trailrunnersLight, flexible; Deep cleats for mud and gravel; mesh for easy drainageGreat choice. Feet wet every single day but shoes never waterlogged too long.
Swrve slim pantsCut for city cycling = deep pockets; no extra fabric to flap in wind, puddle at ankles, soak up water; don't like zipoffs or cargo pockets; polyester more stretchy and comfy in rain and in bedPerfect choice, very happy
Lightweight merino long-sleeve shirtComfy when damp; thinner for quicker drying; no stinkRarely to worn alone; usually needed additional layers for bugs, cold
Prana polyester long-sleeve quarter-zip hoodyEasy temp adjustment; love the thumb loopsWorn daily over the merino, usually all day. Hood very useful for light bug pressure when headnet too hot/fussy. (Interested to try a midweight merino with synthetic button-up?)
Under Armor spandex boxer-briefsNo stretching, bunching, chafing, smellPerfect choice
Patagonia R1 hoodyWarmth when active; deep venting; thumb loops!Hood is still a little tight and short for my long neck :(
Polyester balaclavaAdjustable warmth when not wearing R1Kept my cap from blowing off across the moors; lifesaver for nose/mouth when cold, dry air started to affect my lungs
Topo Designs camp hatWoven better than mesh for wet/wind; broad, flat brim helps when wearing glasses in rainPerfect choice
Casio digital watchSlim, inexpensive, water resistant; tells timeNever took it off
Generic fleece glovesWarmishPerfect for small temperature adjustments. Worn daily. Not great in rain, but jacket sleeves helped. These things are... 15 years old?
Rab Kinetic rain jacketLight; long sleeves cover hands; great hoodIt worked great, but maybe a liiiiiiittle too light. A few more days with heavier rain would change my calculus here.
Sierra Designs rain pantsInexpensive, durableLight enough, sufficiently windproof; not going to spend much on something with limited performance requirements that gets heavy wear
Marmot Ion windshirtHelps with insects + cold, wind when activeAbsolutely perfect... for only one single day (cold, windy, alternating snowfall and sun). Otherwise, easily replaced by rain jacket.
Mountain Hardwear Thermostatic insulated jacketNuclear option, just in caseMostly used as pillow. Could be replaced with 8-10oz vest, perhaps.
New Balance running tightsNight-time layer if everything is drenchedNever needed
ULA Circuit backpackMore durable as luggage than my lighter packsWorked perfectly; love the hip pockets
Tarptent Moment tentNot bringing trekking poles; sets up easilyLoved all the mesh for views and bugs; managed well in heavy winds
Western Mountaineering Ultralite 20º sleeping bagOnly other option was summerweight bagA little bit overkill, but no complaints
Supercat alcohol stoveInexpensive, fuel everywhere, easier to fly withWould bring again
Evernew .9L Ti potTrusty ol' standby
20oz bike water bottleWater everywhere, don't need a lot while movingAlso very useful for drink mixes and steeping lots of tea at end of day
Platypus 2L water bottleCamp convenience
DEETMosquitos waking up...Essential for middle stretch – boggier, lower-elevation campsites

(Not listed are the usual essentials and conveniences – sunglasses, first aid kit, chapstick, nail clippers, small light, journaling stuff, maps, etc.)

Helpful Links and Resources

Kungsleden6221 I got a lot out of Danielle and Wayne Fenton's Kungsleden journal, and found their book quite useful as well. The photos were super helpful for understanding terrain and weather and such. Ditto for Distant North and Aaron Teoh's pages. (That said, there's a fine line where you can read and see too much ahead of time...). Over on BackpackingLight.com, the trip reports from Kristin Gates' and Jörgen Johansson's trips in Alaska were useful for rounding out Arctic travel knowledge, as were as various forum posts. The Swedish Mountain Maps app was really useful for daydreaming in advance, and the occasional peek at the terrain. The STF Kungsleden Facebook page is good for the on-the-ground trail conditions in the days leading up to the hike. The Calazo maps are really good, and I was glad I had them along. And there you have it. Enjoy your hike.


Marlina the Murderer in Four Acts

Marlina the Murderer in Four Acts. The old lonesome house, and our weary protagonist, reminded me of Unforgiven. So much western goodness: Leone-esque desert wah wah guitar, church bells, lonesome trumpets; lone figures in a heat-rippled landscape; swords at the ready at the hip or hand like pistols, or resting across a saddle. Interesting gender themes: entitlement, absentee parents, naming children, pregnancy rumors and shaming. Birth scene seems an echo of early trauma. See also: Revenge, MFA, A Vigilante, Kill Bill: Vol. 1, Kill Bill: Vol. 2, etc..


Wonder Woman

wonder-woman Wonder Woman. Watched on a flight, which is the perfect environment for quietly sobbing at moments of goodness. The origin story can be so tired, but I just loved the moral heart of this one. The No Man's Land scene is perfect (and well-named...). Dr. Poison is such a great villain. I loved the make-up and sly creepiness and the hoarse voice. Wish she had more to do. The line "It's not about deserve... It's about what you believe." – such a great scene – got me thinking about William Munny. "Deserve's got nothin' to do with it."


Crazy Rich Asians

Crazy Rich Asians. Family drama! Family over mere passion mentioned several times. I like the loving attention to food, and flowers. Interesting that the soundtrack featured so many Asian-language covers of American songs, rather than local originals. I like the reclaiming of the Apocalypse Now helicopter/Wagner scene. Our hero Nick kinda drove me a little nuts with the constant smiling (reminded me of Jean Dujardin in The Artist). Gotta admit I love a good wardrobe change montage – they get me every time. I wonder if there's some meaning or symbolism that went over my head during mahjong game, specifically the bamboo 8 tile. At the least, an echo of the early poker scene ("playing not to lose").


Free Solo

Free Solo. Super invigorating. Yeesh. I can't imagine. There are times I've gotten a little bit nervous about moves on a 15ft bouldering wall. I didn't realize he had a girlfriend at the time of filming. The feat itself was amazing, but what made the movie good was those peripheral relationships. How people around him were stressing out, trying to be supportive without pressuring and without losing their minds. Saw this one on a long flight. Other outdoorsy movies I've seen on flights: Wild, 127 Hours.



Star Wars: The Last Jedi

Star Wars: The Last Jedi. Second viewing (the first). The opening bombing run is really good. I'd forgotten about it – holds up on rewatch. The casino interlude is so, so dumb. I appreciate the visual contrasts in the salt planet battle. Not just the colors, but the scale, like with Finn's tiny figure juxtaposed with the gigantic tanks in empty space. We need more like that. So many close-ups. Love the tortured silence of Kylo Ren. So depressed, a mindset to just let it all go, burn it all down. Broader theme here of how brash, seat-of-the-pants heroism is often foolish. The writing still strikes me as bad in many spots. I didn't notice the first time around how the kid Force-pulls himself a broom at the end.






Good Things in 2018

It's never too late to reflect. I walked a lot. It's the best. One of my goals was to walk every street in downtown Atlanta. Done. I also walked from my place downtown out to the peak of Kennesaw Mountain. This was ~23 miles of mostly road walking that was mostly... pretty miserable. It's hard to feel like you're living your best life when you're walking a narrow strip of grass next to a 4-lane divided highway through light-industrial zoning. But you grow in some odd way. You feel a bit more sympathy for when you see someone doing it who maybe didn't have the same choice in the matter. Similar to my walk to Stone Mountain I featured in Good Things in 2017, "Really glad I did it, and I will never do it again." I also got some good walking when I made a summer visit to Glacier National Park with my dad and brother. We hadn't had a guys-only trip like that since... I couldn't tell you when. No place like it. Only downside was not being able to disappear into the wilderness immediately. Glacier was my second National Park of the year. Earlier in the spring I went on a volunteer trip to Saguaro National Park, working on a long-running project to remove invasive buffelgrass (which increases wildfire risk, among other issues). It was the most incredible experience. I've long loved the outdoors and hiking and such, but there was something about that trip where nature just really bowled me over. I was there after a dry winter (I am told), but rains had come through just before I arrived. Over the course of the trip, I got to see the desert wake up. Spring was beginning. So many crazy plants I'd never seen up close, or even heard of, were leafing out over the course of the week. To see the dry brown scrubby landscape come alive, and then return home to the lush damp south... I was absolutely drunk on nature. I went to my usual weekend stomping grouds, a favorite state park, and I was just in aww. "Look at these grasses! These leaves!" That new appreciation for nature ended up feeding into an amazing reading streak. I surfed one of those rare waves of books, hitting a stride where every book leads to the next and the next and the next. I think it really kicked off with McPhee's Encounters with the Archdruid, just before the Saguaro trip. I read Pilgrim at Tinker Creek and that led me to The Hidden Life of Trees and then I figured I'd give Desert Solitaire another shot, and loved it this time around. I read Goodbye to a River, where I got a feel for the frontier, and more curiosity about the history of the west and non-white experience of the environment. Empire of the Summer Moon was a nice complement. A Natural History of the Senses worked its way in, and Black Nature, and This Radical Land, too. (In the midst of this I took an excellent workation trip to Toronto, and saw Niagara Falls on one of those little boats, and had an out-of-body experience.) After adding Coming Into the Country and Rainy Lake House to the reading binge, I'd touched just about every region of the country. This all tied together and peaked with what I think was my favorite book of the year, Empires, Nations, & Families. Whew. What a ride. Outside of that, some other 2018 reads I enjoyed more than average, with especially goods ones asterisked:

I watched some good stuff, too. Many of the stand-outs were smaller-scale movies. Favorites, among those new to me, mostly in reverse chronological order:

I built on my daily push-up and squat habits, slacked off on meditation, and got a lot better at flossing regularly. (Don't economize on floss. Buy the good stuff and use it liberally.) I started doing evening journal to match my morning one. I've really liked this addition. It's a good opportunity to scrub my brain clean before I sleep. Usually it's just bulletpoints of what happened during the day, and that's plenty. Good year, though it didn't always feel like it. 🤔






Black Panther

Black Panther. Solid entry. Great villain, but our hero is kinda bland. I'm not over the moon with it. Lots of humor falling flat. I selfishly liked seeing the High Museum as a featured setting. Seemed like there's some Star Wars influence here. Also, love to see MMA becoming a part of the action movie vocabulary. Not just punches and kicks, but the grappling, throws, chokes, holds, etc.. These people should be complete martial artists. The star of the soundtrack was the talking drums. 👌




Avengers: Infinity War

avengers-infinity-war Avengers: Infinity War. It was mildly distracting to see the movie's first major battle taking place in my downtown Atlanta neighborhood, just blocks away. Is this how New Yorkers feel all the time? Thanos is a great villain. Maybe knowing they'd have him around later let them invest more and give him some motivation beyond destruction? I like the several scenes where loved ones are torn between hard choices – Vision and Scarlet Witch, Thanos and Gamorra, Starlord and Gamorra, etc.. My main frustration with the movie was the big Wakanda scenes. We are convinced this is the most technologically advanced civilization on the planet, and they are fighting a crucial battle... with infantry, hand-to-hand? It's a shame. They could have done something more interesting. The giant roto-tiller machines were cool, though.